I just found out yesterday I have a chance to buy a very unique and special rifle so I dont mind switching these funds over to that rifle if in fact its goes up for sale, so it all works out. Obviously I passed on the rifle, a friend of theirs (huge collector) said the gun was worth 600 and it might just be but Ive seen some pretty nice examples sell for 750 and sometimes you get the original box. The barrel "lines" were pretty crisp sans the last couple inches at the muzzle and it appeared to have the stock finish still on the rifle. I went and looked at the rifle this evening prepared with a mini-mag lite and screw driver.įound two hairline cracks in the stock, bluing wore at the rear of the receiver, lines on the barrel had been slightly rounded at the muzzle along with the crown being somewhat beat up, found hints of cold bluing near the rear sight on the barrel and the entire rifle had that cold blue smell to it. It would be nice if you could fire the gun, but if you can't, you can at least tell if it cycles the ammo properly.Ĭheck for cracks and looseness in the stocks - especially in the area of where the stock mates to the receiver.įirst off I want to thank you fellows here on RFC for all your help and preparing me to critique the rifle. I bought a 12a pump action 22lr and the serial numbers online do not seem to go back far enough. If allowable, take the gun out back, fill the magazine, and cycle them through it to check for function. Hi, I am hoping someone can help me out. Beats the heck out of a bore light in my opinion for inspecting the surface of the bore and judging its condition. Get a piece of white paper or something, place it on a well illuminated surface, and view the paper through the bore of the gun.from both ends. I'm sure you know this, but I would not just use a bore light. I would break the gun down, remove the bolt and check the chamber/face for any odd or undesirable conditions. As I have said, lack of deep sharp lettering doesn't always mean it's not factory, but you can, with care, tell whether it has been buffed or sanded at some point by checking the edges of the lettering for evidence of such. to see if everything matched up so to speak. LW MAGNUM (ALSO INCLUDES M/1100 “LT”)ġ964 TO APPROX.But I guess if I was the one going to look at it, the first thing I would do would be to check for originality.the usual things.sharp lettering/numbering, condition of finishes on metal and wood. “LIGHT WEIGHT” (“LW”) (ALSO INCLUDES M/1100 “LT”) Does anyone know if that is correct? ThanksĪll the codes above refer to the barrel codes, not the serial number.ġ950 TO APPROX 1968:NO SERIAL NUMBER PREFIXġ968 TO PRESENT: LETTERS USED (IN SEQUENCE) I'm trying to figure out when it was made and from what I read on a site it stated the first letter would be the month and then the first two numbers would be the year (so mine would be Feb 1979?!?). Williamcprice wrote:I just recently purchased a Remington 1100 shotgun that has a serial number on the receiver that is "L79xxxxV". They resumed stamping the date code on the barrel on 10/1/01. They continued to mark the date code on the end flap of the shipping box. (*) On 8/9/99, stopped stamping the barrels with the date code. One needs to be sure that the barrel is original to the gun before trusting the Barrel Code listing, above. Using these barrel codes to date a shotgun is somewhat unreliable, as shotgun barrels are often interchanged at random. Using barrel codes (such as those listed above) to date the manufacture are reliable on Remington rifles, as the company rarely changed barrels on a customer's rifle. The following letters correspond to the months of the yearī - L - A - C - K - P - O - W - D - E - R - Xġ - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 Remington's manufactured after 1921 have a code located on the left side of the barrel near the frame that identifies the year and month of manufacture. Here is some information that you can get from you serial number after 1921
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